Aromavault

Identifiers

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CAS (all sources)

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CAS (Perfumiarz)

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CAS (PerfumersWorld)

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CAS (FraterWork)

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CAS (EU Hekserij)

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CAS (TSCA Hekserij)

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INCI name (FraterWork)

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IUPAC name (FraterWork)

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INCI (Hekserij)

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EC number (Hekserij)

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FEMA (Hekserij)

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UN number

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Synonyms (PerfumersWorld)

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Synonyms (FraterWork)

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Scent profile

Odour family (FraterWork)

Woody

Longevity (FraterWork)

Lasts > 60 hours on a smelling strip.

Appearance (FraterWork)

Pale yellow liquid

Descriptions

Comment (FraterWork)

When Feminité du Bois was unveiled by Shiseido in 1992, it marked a watershed moment in perfumery that would reshape how we think about gendered fragrance. Created by the masterful duo of Christopher Sheldrake and Pierre Bourdon under the artistic direction of Serge Lutens, this scent dared to centre massive doses of cedarwood—traditionally masculine territory—in a composition explicitly celebrating femininity. The timing was audacious. The early '90s fragrance market was dominated by aquatic freshness (L'Eau d'Issey had just launched) and clean, ozonic scents. Into this landscape came Feminité du Bois with its unapologetic 60% woods concentration, wrapped in dried fruits and spices like something from a Moroccan souk. Sheldrake's genius was in softening the cedar's astringency with an innovative plum accord—not fresh plum, but rather dried, honeyed, almost wine-like—creating a push-pull between austere wood and sensual fruit that had never been attempted at this scale. This wasn't just a pretty wood scent; it was architectural, almost brutalist in its commitment to cedar, yet somehow intimate and skin-like. The composition became the template for Lutens' entire wood series (Cèdre, Santal Blanc, Chêne) and influenced everything from Hermès Terre d'Hermès to contemporary niche brands. It proved that women would embrace—even crave—compositions beyond the floral-oriental safety zone. Top Notes: Ginger, Cinnamon, Plum Heart Notes: Cedarwood, Turkish Rose, Peach, Ylang-Ylang, Cardamom, Clove Base Notes: Benzoin, Vanilla, Musk, Sandalwood, Patchouli Best Seller compound

Notes

When Feminité du Bois was unveiled by Shiseido in 1992, it marked a watershed moment in perfumery that would reshape how we think about gendered fragrance. Created by the masterful duo of Christopher Sheldrake and Pierre Bourdon under the artistic direction of Serge Lutens, this scent dared to centre massive doses of cedarwood—traditionally masculine territory—in a composition explicitly celebrating femininity. The timing was audacious. The early '90s fragrance market was dominated by aquatic freshness (L'Eau d'Issey had just launched) and clean, ozonic scents. Into this landscape came Feminité du Bois with its unapologetic 60% woods concentration, wrapped in dried fruits and spices like something from a Moroccan souk. Sheldrake's genius was in softening the cedar's astringency with an innovative plum accord—not fresh plum, but rather dried, honeyed, almost wine-like—creating a push-pull between austere wood and sensual fruit that had never been attempted at this scale. This wasn't just a pretty wood scent; it was architectural, almost brutalist in its commitment to cedar, yet somehow intimate and skin-like. The composition became the template for Lutens' entire wood series (Cèdre, Santal Blanc, Chêne) and influenced everything from Hermès Terre d'Hermès to contemporary niche brands. It proved that women would embrace—even crave—compositions beyond the floral-oriental safety zone. Top Notes: Ginger, Cinnamon, Plum Heart Notes: Cedarwood, Turkish Rose, Peach, Ylang-Ylang, Cardamom, Clove Base Notes: Benzoin, Vanilla, Musk, Sandalwood, Patchouli Best Seller compound

Usage

IFRA 51 (FraterWork)

20% in finished product (Cat. 4) Odour Family: Woody Appearance: Pale yellow liquid Longevity: Lasts > 60 hours on a smelling strip.

Links

FraterWorkhttps://fraterworks.com/products/compound-femininite

Compound Feminité

Comments